Bio Pure Intro Video

•May 29, 2013 • Leave a Comment


If you haven’t heard about Bio Pure yet, we probably haven’t visited your office in a while. It’s a vacuum line cleaning product we’ve been pretty impressed with so far, and it’s also recommended by name from one of our largest Air/Vac suppliers, Tech West. Take a look at how this system works to keep your office running smoothly in the background.

Yaeger Dental offers Bio Pure Restore 6oz, as well as the cleaner in 6, 14 and 48oz containers. We also offer the startup kit which comes with a dispenser. Let us know if we can help you get started @ 650-593-5100

ADA Incoming!

•October 11, 2012 • Leave a Comment

Moscone Center, SF

Hey, everybody!  Keeping busy over here as usual, especially with preparing for the ADA show at San Francisco’s Moscone Center.  If you’d like to stop by and visit us at the show, we’ll be at booth #2705.  Don’t hesitate to come pull one of our techs out of the booth if you need someone to help you with your equipment needs (We’re always looking for excuses to walk the floor.).

Friday is almost upon us, which means we have just one week to go until the event.  Below, you can see our new informational pamphlets that we’ll be passing out.  I’m pretty happy with how they came out, especially with my rough (and generally lacking) design skills.  Introducing ourselves is usually a mouth-full, especially now that we offer so much, including web-design (the industry is really changing, isn’t it?  But for the better!).

I may be a day early with this one, but have a good weekend!


Hy5, Now Offered by Yaeger Dental!

•July 12, 2012 • Leave a Comment

Of course in this day and age, we’re all used to using hand sanitizers throughout the day, especially around our dental/medical offices.  Hy5 is an alcohol free solution to hand sanitation, which doesn’t have an of the drawbacks of their harsh counterparts (i.e. dry/cracked skin, overpowering scent, toxicity, etc.).  Check out the video and let us know what you think.  Yaeger Dental offers the full line of Hy5 products, including automatic dispensers, refills and hand pumps.

So far, the offices we’ve demoed the product in have been impressed with it.  We’ve already got auto-dispenser installations in the works, and we’ve only been selling it for about a week!

Samples are also available.  Contact us to find out more at:

Pin-less 3-way Syringes

•June 12, 2012 • Leave a Comment

Here’s a little walk-through that will teach you some troubleshooting procedures, and a bit about one type of 3-way syringe.  Several issues can come about when a syringe fails, usually the most pressing problems being water leaks.

Warning: Please, please, PLEASE practice caution when working on your syringes, or any dental equipment for that matter.  Syringe buttons/valves have quite a bit of both air and water pressure behind them, and once the locking mechanism is disabled, they can and will fly out at you which could cause injury!  Turn off the dental unit and clamp off the syringe hose before attempting any work.

WARNING: Turn the delivery unit to the OFF position AND clamp off the syringe hose!!

How to tell if you have a pin-less type of syringe?  Take a look at the captioned picture below:

The left syringe has no locking pin going through the head, while the right syringe does.

(Pin-type syringes will be covered in a later tutorial.)

In a pin-less style syringe, the button/valve is actually in two pieces.  If you are noticing that the buttons are sticking, there is water leaking from the tip constantly, or if water is coming out around the button, it’s time to replace the buttons/valves.

First, remove the buttons by pulling up on them while wiggling slightly.  Depending on how corroded the buttons are, it could be a challenge to take them out.

Pin-less syringe buttons pull straight out.

Second, you’re going to have to get a special tool to remove the second piece of the valve.  It’s called a valve core tool, and it can be purchased at most tire/auto-parts/bike stores.


The valve core tool looks a little something like this.

Gently insert the valve core tool into the syringe and carefully twist with a counter-clockwise direction, as if you were taking out a screw.

Once the valve is unscrewed, sometimes you still need to use a pair of hemostates or the like to remove the valve core.

This is what you should pull out:

Something to note, treat the two parts of the valve as one device, meaning that if you change one, you change the other.  Corrosion can and will transfer from an old valve core to a new button, and visa versa, so it doesn’t pay to cut corners.

Treat these two pieces as one. Keep both in stock.

During our repair courses that I help teach at the CDA So-Cal meetings, I’m always asked, “So, all we have to change are the o-rings on these pieces, right?”  That’s where I smile politely and remind them that the whole point to doing your own repairs is to be cost efficient.  If you’re really bored, you can take one of these old buttons and valve cores apart and really see that these parts are more complicated than they look.  If you were to find rubber replacements for them, you’re still looking at a looooooong repair time, which cuts into your schedule, which is better spent on your patients.  The combined cost of a valve and button is less than $15, and these pieces can be changed in about a minute.  Do yourself a favor (and save yourself the aggravation) by just using replacement valves and buttons.

To replace the valve cores and buttons, reverse the steps you used to take the old ones out.  Note: use silicone based lube, a very light coat, on the pieces you change.  Don’t use petroleum jelly (Vaseline) on your dental equipment for lubrication.  Petroleum jelly will destroy the o-ring material.

You don't need much lube when prepping your new buttons and valves. Rub some between your fingers and handle the parts until they have a shiny coat.

If you are noticing that water is leaking around where the syringe tip is inserted into the syringe head, or if when going back and forth between air and water you get mixture, there are o-rings that have to be changed.  Depending one what type of nose cone your syringe has, either by hand, or with the use of the proper sized Allen wrench, remove the nose cone and brass insert.  There will be either one (for the cones you have to tighten down by hand to lock a syringe tip in) or two (non-twist nose cone) o-rings in the cone.  Replace what you remove.

*"Twist type"* nose cone that is tightened by hand.

Removing the brass insert.

When going back and forth between air and water, and you’re getting spurts of water when you switch, you have to change the tip adapter o-ring.  In the case of most of the pin-less types of syringes, it’s usually below the brass insert.

Tiny tip adapter o-ring under the brass insert.

If you’re using disposable tips with a metal insert, you’ll notice when you change this tip adapter o-ring that it may be pretty shredded up.  I personally suggest using autoclaveable syringe tips, due to the fact they don’t damage o-rings and are generally a better fit, or fully plastic tips without metal inserts.

As with the buttons and valves, when changing the o-rings in the tip adapter and nose cone areas, be sure to handle your parts with a light and shiney coat of silicone lube.

That’s all for now!  Coming up, I’ll be going over pin-retention type syringes, more specifically the most common syringe out there: the DCI quick connect 3430.

Going Green with your Vac System

•May 25, 2012 • Leave a Comment

If you haven’t seen this product yet, take a look at the video down below.  Now that we have some track history with this vac system, we can finally say that we’d recommend the EcoVac as a replacement to an existing regenerative blower type system, or even a new office build out.  The only downside to using the EcoVac is that it takes up quite a bit of space, but if your office is using a dry system at the moment, the fit shouldn’t be a problem.


-Amazingly strong, consistent suction operatory side

-Waterless system saves on your water/sewer bill

-On demand electrical draw helps you save on annual costs to run the machine

-Tough, quiet design


-Size (Don’t plan on sticking this pump and its separator tank under your lab sink!  An equipment shed/closet is a must.)

-Up front cost (Although the pump cost more than most up front, its features and design will save you money in the long run.)

If you’re interested in this system, contact Yaeger Dental Supply!

Vacuum Valve Service

•May 24, 2012 • Leave a Comment

Wow…it’s been a while, hasn’t it?  Hopefully this little guide will satiate you “do-it-yourselfers” for a few days.

Let’s go over vacuum valves.  One or more may look like one of these:

Left to Right: HVE extended; HVE standard; SE with removable tip


**Note: Before you work on any vacuum valve, make sure you glove up and stay safe.  You know what gets siphoned through these devices as well as I do, so take precautions when dealing with bio-hazardous remains that stick to the insides of these valves.**

Now, it’s pretty easy to tell when these valves need to be worked on (your thumbs will tell you).  If it takes more than a light flick of a single finger to open or close the valve, it needs to be rebuilt.  You shouldn’t have to use both hands to operate one of these.

First off, let’s see what’s inside an HVE valve:

This is an HVE extended valve, but the standard valves have the same parts, just a shorter body.

Note: All four o-rings are the same size in the valve, so you can keep a bulk stock of them in your tool kit.  The o-rings for the base swivel and tip are pretty hard to get to, but with some patience (and maybe a few bad words), you can replace them.  Use an OLD explorer or curette that you don’t care about anymore to dig the old o-ring out with the sharp end, and use the blunt end to place the new one in the chase.  The reason why you want to use tools you don’t really need anymore is because digging against aluminum valves makes it really easy to break your instruments.  The two o-rings on the barrel, the part on the bottom of the picture, are what help the valve function smoothly.

The o-ring functions are as follows:

Base o-ring: Keeps the swivel turning smoothly and holds the valve together.  If the valve swivel is frozen, or if the valve falls apart at this joint, replace the o-ring.

Barrel o-rings: Keep the valve handle functions smooth (open/close).  Change these when the handle is hard to operate.

Tip o-ring: Holds disposable tips in place firmly.  Change this o-ring when tips either fall out too easily, or are too hard to insert.

Tip: Always use silicone grease on the o-rings before reassembly.  DO NOT use petroleum jelly (Vaseline) on any equipment in your office.  Petroleum jellies dissolve o-ring materials.  Stick to silicone based lubricants.

With a nylon brush, clean out the valve body pieces according to the images below (you can put the valve pieces in your ultrasonic cleaner to help break up some of the debris that may be stuck inside the valves):

**REPEATING NOTE: Before you work on any vacuum valve, make sure you glove up and stay safe.  You know what gets siphoned through these devices as well as I do, so take precautions when dealing with bio-hazardous remains that stick to the insides of these valves.**

The valve top end

The on/off valve barrel hole

Swivel and barb connector

The valve base

The on/off valve barrel

After all the pieces are clean, go ahead and reassemble the valve.  Make sure all the pieces slide and function smoothly.  If you still have issues with the valve after lubricating and replacing the o-rings, just change the valve out for a new replacement.

So, how ’bout those SE valves?

The SE is almost the same as an HVE valve, only miniaturized


If you thought that the HVE tip and base o-rings were fun to change, you’re going to love working on the SE valves!  (If you read that sarcastically, give yourself +10 tech points!)

Some SE valves have disposable tips, such as the one in the image above, which are really easy to change, however some brands use o-rings, which are a pain to change.  Below are some images to follow when cleaning out the valve bodies.  Remember to use silicone lube on all the o-rings before you reassemble the valve.

Base swivel and barb

The valve body

The on/off valve barrel

The on/off valve barrel hole

That’s all for now!  Coming up soon, we’ll be covering syringe repairs.  Stay tuned, and as always, good luck!



•January 6, 2012 • 1 Comment

Happy Friday, everyone! To everyone who has been giving me feedback about what you want to see on my equipment repair walk-throughs, I’d like to say thank you! Having your questions and comments to use as a compass really does help me figure out which guide to write up next. Next week, I will be putting a basic 3-way syringe repair guide together, seeing as how that has been my most popular topic request. But for now, let’s relax after getting through another week, and have a laugh at one of the most well known viral videos to hit the internet: David after Dentist
Enjoy, and see you next week!

Classic Mr. Bean at the Dentist

•December 24, 2011 • 5 Comments

Happy Friday once again, everyone!

I hope that this holiday season hasn’t left you all too frazzled, but if it has, don’t worry (we’re at the home stretch)!

Here’s a classic Mr. Bean episode in two parts where he visits the dentist.

Is it weird that I can recognize a lot of the equipment in the operatories…?

Anyway, enjoy, and have a Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays!





Apollo Lubricated Compressor Maintenance Walkthrough

•December 14, 2011 • 17 Comments

For our (many) doctors that have lubricated compressors from the older Apollo lines, here is a visual walk-through of basic maintenance that can (and should) be done on a monthly basis.

Let’s get started!

*Remember: never attempt to do a repair that you are not comfortable with or are unsure about! Having overflowing confidence to dive into something new is one thing, but always be careful and don’t hurt yourself. As a doctor, your first and foremost priority is the overseeing of your office and making sure your business runs smoothly. Always be extremely careful when performing even the most basic maintenance on your equipment.*
(Yaeger Dental Supply, Inc. does not assume any responsibility for damages to equipment or injury as a result of working on the equipment as outlined in these tutorials.)

Figure 1.1

The first task you will want to accomplish is to check the oil level. While the compressor is cycling (pumping up), the oil level should fill the sight-glass half way. Be sure to check this level on a regular basis. Acceptable oil consumption, per compressor head, is between 1oz.-3oz. per month.  If the compressor head is consuming more oil than this, call your technician to take a look at your system.  Chances are good that the rings inside the head are wearing out.

Figure 1.2

Filling the oil is easy.  Just hold open the filler valve flap and pour the oil in.  Most compressor oil bottles have a tiny spout on the top to make filling easier, however a piece of 1/4″ poly tubing can be inserted into the bottle nozzle to make this task even easier.

Figure 1.3

Figure 1.4

Next, check the function of your compressors cooling fans.  Sometimes there are cooling fans on the deck (the platform that the compressor heads sit on) as well as the top of the compressor heads themselves, but the ones that really matter are the latter.  Some fans blow downward, and others upward.  As long as you can feel sufficient airflow and see the fans rotating relatively quickly, you can assume they are functioning properly.  If the cooling fans die, they should be replaced by your technician ASAP, or else the head can overheat and cause major thermal and electrical problems, which can add up to a lot of money.  A ~$150.00 fan is much kinder to your wallet than a new ~$2000.00 compressor head!


Figure 1.5

The checking the coalescent filter flow indicator needs to be done while the compressor is operating in its normal duty cycle.

Figure 1.6

To release pressure in the compressor tank so that the compressor will cycle, pull the pressure relief valve ring until the compressor heads turn on.  Watch the pressure gauge as you do so, making sure that the compressor turns on at 80 psi (+/- 5 psi) and turns off at 100 psi (+/- 5 psi).

Figure 1.7

Figure 1.8

While the compressor is cycling, take notice of the indicator color.  If it stays green through the whole cycle, the filter is still good.  If it shuttles to red anytime during the cycle, change the filter immediately.

Figure 1.9

To change the filter, first turn the compressor off.  Next, hold the red and black lock tab down while turning the filter housing clockwise or counterclockwise while pushing upward to disengage the locking teeth on the bowl.  After turning the bowl, slightly wiggle and pull down to remove the filter housing.

Figure 1.10

To remove the filter, unscrew the filter counter-clockwise.  Replace with a new filter and repeat the steps 1.9 and 1.10, except in reverse order.  Be sure that the red filter gasket is in place on the new filter before you install it.

Figure 1.11

Next on the list is to check the wet/dry indicator on the tank.  If the color of the glass indicates that the condition is wet, switch the purge tank to “open” (the purge valve to switch over to the separate purge tank allows the desiccant tank to dry out) and check back in a few days to see if the condition changes.  If not, call your service tech.  If the color changes to “dry,” close the purge tank.

Figure 1.12

Open the tank drain briefly to see if there is any moisture. If no moisture comes out, close the valve. If moisture exists, leave the valve open until moisture is gone.

Now, that wasn’t too scary was it? You now know how to do a full monthly service to your Apollo lubricated air compressor. Check back with us regularly to learn more tips and self-fixes you can preform in your own office.

Have a suggestion on a repair topic? Drop us a line at

*Remember: never attempt to do a repair that you are not comfortable with or are unsure about! Having overflowing confidence to dive into something new is one thing, but always be careful and don’t hurt yourself. As a doctor, your first and foremost priority is the overseeing of your office and making sure your business runs smoothly. Always be extremely careful when performing even the most basic maintenance on your equipment.*
(Yaeger Dental Supply, Inc. does not assume any responsibility for damages to equipment or injury as a result of working on the equipment as outlined in these tutorials.)

Happy Friday!

•December 9, 2011 • 5 Comments

Happy Friday, everyone!

As we slowly approach the end of the year, academic final exams and last minute Christmas shopping, it’s pretty safe to say that stress levels can be high.  One of my favorite ways to unwind is veg out for a while and watch comedy specials/movies.  Below is a link to a fun trip down retro-lane with a little movie you might remember called “Little Shop of Horrors,” in which Steve Martin plays a mal-adjusted dentist.

Enjoy and have a good weekend!

>>>>[HD] Dentist! – Little Shop of Horrors<<<<

(Image courtesy of Realm of the Lone Grey Squirrel)